The Wonders of Petrified Forest National Park

Aren’t these cool blue badlands the last sight you expected to see in this red-rock-filled state? I’m still pleasantly puzzled by them.

In celebration of National Park Week, let's talk favorite parks. Since its centennial anniversary, the National Park Service has been encouraging us to get out and #FindYourPark. Have you found yours? Mine’s the perfect place to ignite some serious exploration inspiration. It's relatively tiny as far as national parks go, but Petrified Forest National Park stretches across more than 220,000 acres of the lush desert grasslands that carpet Navajo and Apache counties in Northeastern Arizona. It's also the only national park that good old Route 66 runs through, so you can "Get your kicks" and get out and explore the great outdoors all in one epic road trip.

Petrified Forest is unlike any other park or forest. Its name could be a bit deceiving if you don’t know what 200-million-year-old, petrified trees look like. This is the only forest I’ve ever heard of that doesn’t contain a single standing tree for as far as your eyes can see. Doesn’t sound like much of a forest, does it? But a couple of the park’s most spectacular sections – Crystal Forest, Rainbow Forest, and Jasper Forest, might give you a bit more insight as to what exactly this unparalleled place has to offer. It could be described as the most beautiful, and least depressing, sparkling cemetery for ancient trees, or a technicolor, desert paradise packed with geological wonders. Without getting overly scientific, over the course of millions of years, these trees have become fossils, protected from decay by oxygen, organisms, and just the right environmental conditions. What were once rough, jagged, flaking shards of bark, are now quartz, silica, calcite, and opal; smooth as glass, incapable of burning, and as colorful as a treasure chest jam-packed with gemstones. Specks of red, yellow, white, purple, pink, and blue make up the sleek surfaces of these previously-intact tree trunks. While they were alive, these former ferns, gingkoes, and coniferous trees once towered up to 200 feet tall. (That's longer than a football field!) Because of the way they cracked under stress, these petrified logs naturally broke at a clean angle, making them appear as though they were intentionally sliced with one fell swoop. They now weigh roughly 160-200 lbs per cubic foot – literal dead weight.  Petrified wood can also be found in North Dakota, Egypt, and Argentina, but the most notable collection lies in Northeastern Arizona.

But really, the loads of logs that are scattered throughout the land make up just one magnificent aspect of America’s 30th National Park. Other fascinating features you can find along the 28-mile scenic drive include the remains of what were once massive pueblos; one capable of housing up to 100 people, the countless petroglyphs etched into rockfaces by ancestors of the distant past, and my personal favorite part of the park; the Painted Desert. If you’re entering the park from the north, which I didn’t, then one of the first things you’ll discover is the various shades of pink and red rolling hills accented with strokes of beige and white sands. These seemingly-endless colors tumble off into the distance, meeting a blue sky for an added are-you-kidding-me-how-can-this-be-real effect. The Painted Desert truly looks like it was painted. Because how could anything ever naturally evolve into something so beautiful? 

Drive south just a few miles, and those warm shades turn cool right before your eyes. That’s how you know you’re approaching the trail for Blue Mesa. This particular part of the Painted Desert is the last thing you’d expect to see out there, or really anywhere for that matter. This is where the blue-hued Arizona badlands really take shape. Did you know that Arizona had badlands? You can stroll along the winding walkway through the mountainous multicolored hills that decorate the area. These almost feel like they were just dropped off in a place where they don’t belong, but that just makes them all the more uniquely wonderful.

One of my favorite parts about driving out west is the change in terrain every few miles or so. Blue Mesa is one of the most delightful discoveries you never expected to find in the Four Corners region because there’s really nothing else like them nearby. If you’ve been to Devils Tower in Wyoming, you're probably familiar with the feeling you get when you find a place that kind of sticks out like a giraffe in a stampede of zebras. It almost feels too perfect that so many sensational sites can be seen along this one drive with very little hiking involved. It's as though the landmarks that line Petrified Forest Road were intentionally laid out to enchant travelers with easily accessible and completely unforgettable sweeping views. 

When you go, I recommend starting at the south end of the park then venturing north. This way, you'll start with the biggest concentration of petrified wood as a nice introduction, then you'll finish with the grand finale of landscapes; the Painted Desert. I also recommend, spending the night at La Posada Hotel in Winslow, Arizona. If you're an Eagles fan you're sure to appreciate the novelty of their  Standin' on the Corner Statue and park right on Historic Route 66. For those of you who don't know, Jackson Browne wrote the hit "Take It Easy" for the Eagles back in the 70s, and it's a classic and mandatory tune for cruisin' around out west. I'll be honest, Winslow's crime rate is surprisingly high for a quiet little town. You might feel the vibe walking around at night, but that's ok, you won't have any urge to leave your quaint, cozy room after dinner downstairs at the Turquoise Room. This hotel is referred to as "the resting place" and it won't take long to figure out why.  You'll find the peaceful premises artistically inspired with gorgeous gardens and a gallery to stroll through, authentic Southwest style at every turn, and an eclectically curated trading post. This restful retreat combines the charm of a boutique B&B with the amenities of a well-run hotel. It's known to have a meditative effect on its guests. And it's one of those rare places that make you want to visit just for the inimitable accommodations. But Petrified Forest is the real gem in the region and just under an hour away. If you go, I need to hear all about it!