Crater Lake & Its Visitors

A few facts right off the bat: 

Crater Lake averages 43 feet of snow per year! Back in 2011, the park was buried under a whopping 56 feet of snow, and the rim drive wasn't fully passable until July 22nd. Which means people were probably still snowshoeing around the place on and after the 4th of July.

This past year, Crater Lake got a total of 36 feet of snow, and its scenic drive didn't open in full until July 11th. I was there towards the end of June; a bit too early in their snow-covered, summer season, so only half of the park's scenic drive was open.

Along my very fast-paced adventures, there haven't been many places I've gone and planned to spend an entire day. I'm usually shoe-horning in four to six sights to see, each day. It might sound anything but relaxing, (and sometimes it's just plain not,) but nine times out of ten, I actually find it to be incredibly refreshing, exhilarating, and inspiring.

Even when all that hauling-ass I did to get to a special spot before sundown leaves me low on gas, snacks, and ice in my cooler and the "Next Services" sign already told me there wouldn't be any, for another 64 miles, it might sound weird, but it's doing something good for my soul.

It might be similar to the pride people feel when they hike a mountain, go back and finish school, or make their way into and out of the woods for a camping trip without getting lost or eaten. When I navigate my way through dead zones, where there's not a speck of cell service or GPS signal to be had for miles, I'm relying only on my trusty, handheld maps, reliable road signs, and the instincts I was born with, to help me arrive safely at my destination. When I finally get there, it feels like I'm wearing a brand-new badge on my denim lapel. My arms feel like loaded cannons, and my posture says, "Yeah, I just beasted that drive without anybody else's help, and I could lift that car with my bare hands if I wanted to." But then I walk into the hotel lobby, and I feel instantly pampered; like I'm in a terrycloth robe and cushioned slippers. The automatic doors close behind me, and I'm engulfed in a decadent, air-conditioned area, and I immediately turn to melted butter, ready to be spread and smeared on the crisp, cool sheets of a king-size hotel bed. 

But hours before I retired to a scrumptious hotel in Southern Oregon, I had a full day of fun in Crater Lake National Park. The drive down from Prineville was long and monotonous. It was like taking a trip through a never-ending tunnel of trees, similar to sections of the Garden State Parkway. Only these trees were pine, and instead of leading to the Jersey shore, they led me to a collapsed volcano turned deepest, bluest lake in America.

So there I was, thrilled to be off US-97 South, flying past farms and their inhabitants, watching the temperature drop degree after degree, as I winded up the bend to the south entrance, pumped to be flashing my America the Beautiful Pass and a big goofy smile. "Welcome to Crater Lake National Park!" a cheerful park ranger greeted me. She checked my pass and ID, reminded me that the east rim drive was still closed, and handed me a map and a newspaper to kick off my visit right.

Fast forward a few switchbacks along the Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway, a long-awaited elevation climb and one hell of a hard time finding parking, and I was finally just a few footsteps from the lake's rim. I threw my favorite National Park Service hoodie over my head, snagged my camera, phone, keys, and crossbody bag quickly; locked my car six times, and hustled out of the parking lot. I had so much pep in my step you'd think that sleeping volcano was about to wake up and spew!

But I just couldn't wait to see the place. The second I was able to see that first bit of bright, cerulean blue water, I almost stopped dead in my tracks, but I didn't. I kept walking, almost in slow motion, eyes scanning vehemently, astounded by what I was seeing. It was like my brain didn't automatically compute what my eyes were seeing. Perhaps similar to the way your eyes scan the room searching for answers, trying to piece together the mystery of how and why your peaceful puppy sits in your living room doused in layers and layers of mutilated couch cushions and pillows, mangled shoes, and their regurgitated laces. It's that same perplexed feeling, only in reverse because it's sheer elation.

How could nature have created scenery so surreal, so enchanting, so seemingly make-believe? The lake's centerpiece was named Wizard Island, for crying out loud – of course, it was going to be a wonder to see. With snow beneath my exposed toes and a swift breeze that just barely rippled the water, as far as I could tell, almost 2,000 feet above it, I still couldn't believe what I was seeing was real, and neither could anyone else. "Do you believe this place?!" a woman exclaimed beside me. "I really don't…I can't…I can't take my eyes off it." "Pictures just can't do it justice, right?! I mean it's HUGE…so much bigger than I ever imagined!" she read my mind! 

I offered to take her photo with it, and she offered to take mine. Then we both hopped in our out-of-state rentals and drove to every possible scenic viewpoint along the West Rim Drive. When you go, you'll see …you're just going to feel instantly compelled to see this thing from every possible angle. After seeing every view the west rim had to offer, I have to say, I think the Rim Village Visitor Center offers the best around.

I made my way back to it for lunch, and so did the rest of the happy campers like me. I paid for a turkey sandwich and got to chatting it up with the sweetest, peppiest 22-year-old Aramark manager there ever was. "No way! This is my first time in Oregon too! Aren't you loving it?!" he asked me so excitedly. "Oh, my god, are you kidding, this place is unbelievable! You're so brave, coming out here to a brand-new place to work for the season." He told me how he and a few college buddies decided to get summer jobs at the park. And how much he loved working for Aramark and having the flexibility to bounce around from place to place, shift from full-time to part-time or just seasonal work. They even promoted him to a manager role in a matter of weeks!

"I'm telling you, if you're thinking about making a switch, this is a great company to work for. And they're just itching to fill managerial positions. AND what's not to love about getting to see this view, day in and day out?" I have to admit – the kid had me sold. Ok, I wasn't about to quit my job and extend my trip indefinitely, but a seed had certainly been planted. Or perhaps, a seed that had already been sowed was now starting to sprout. Either way, I was totally looking up to bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, Mitch. And without the slightest desire to search for a seat, I'd probably never find in the crowd outside, I chowed down on my sandwich right there at the register and enjoyed the company of my new pal.

"Do you happen to know if they close the gates at the park entrance after a certain time? I feel like I have no choice, but to stay for sunset, but I can't get locked in, my hotel is about 45 minutes away." "Oh, you HAVE to stay for sunset. It's always incredible. And I don't think the park gates ever close. My friends and I drive around the rim just to stargaze at 2 in the morning, and we've never gotten locked in."

And so it was settled. Before I knew it, I had a belly full of turkey sandwich, a newfound NPS-loving friend, and a new job direction to research, if I ever got cell reception back. We chatted a bit more about other natural wonders across the nation, and then I scurried off to enjoy the park some more. It was only 4 o'clock and since the sun wouldn't set until almost 9 pm and just about all of the hiking trails were still closed due to snow, I took another drive around the west rim, took lots of pictures, then parked in a quiet spot back by the visitor center to meditate for a while. Shortly after I shut my eyes, a car alarm went off behind me, but I kept on meditating. An RV full of dogs continued barking, long after the car alarm stopped. I kept on meditating. Eventually, I fell asleep. Woke up to another car alarm going off about 30 minutes later, but I still felt refreshed.

I decided to get even more refreshed with some Häagen-Dazs from the visitor center; still, in flip flops, temperature hovering right around 58 degrees at 6,178 feet above sea level, and still tickled to be in Crater Lake National Park. I also decided that Discovery Point was where I wanted to wait for the sun to set. And to my surprise, it was relatively empty when I got there. Two young friends took turns taking photos of each other in all different poses and places. I wandered around looking for the perfect angle to capture Wizard's Island in Crater Lake. It was starting to get too cold even for me, but I refused to sit in the car. I skipped around the parking lot, beckoning the sun to set when suddenly I heard a soft engine and slow rolling wheels approaching from behind.

The driver rolled his window down, "You know, you really shouldn't be out here without any reflective gear on. I could barely see you from the road...don't you think it's kind of dangerous…the way you're dressed?" Granted, I was wearing black pants and a dark green sweatshirt, but it wasn't even dark out yet, plus, I wasn't exactly on the road, I was in a wide-open parking lot. I squinted my eyes and wrinkled my forehead in a confused, almost laughing response, "Really? But I'm not even on the road, I'm in the park—" a sweet, mocking voice scoffed at him, "Oh, shut up, Sam. Ignore him, honey, that's just Sam being Sam." An adorable woman hopped out of the passenger seat, but not before giving Sam a playful slap on the chest. She slammed the door to their white Subaru Outback, then sashayed her way around the front of the car and over to me. Sam's giggling turned to all-out laughter. I started laughing too. "I'm sorry, I couldn't resist," he said with a chuckling smile.

Cindy, about three to four inches taller than me, with short curly hair bouncing to the pep in her step, walked right up to me like she knew me. "He's a pain, but I like him, so I keep him around," she winked at me. They were in their late 40s, and they were fun, full of life, friendly as can be, and just my cup of tea.

"Isn't this place magnificent…what's your name, sweetheart?" "Lauren...and yes it is! I can't get over it." "Lauren, nice to meet you, I'm Cindy, and he's Sam. Are you staying up at the lodge tonight?" "No, I'm heading out to a hotel in Chiloquin tonight after sunset, I've been waiting all day to see the sunset." "Chee-lo— Where's—" Sam interrupted her, "Oh, you don't wanna head out there, you wanna stay at the lodge! It's terrific. That's where all the fun is at." Cindy answered for me, "The lodge is all booked up, remember, Sam?" She was so cute and funny. They both were. The way she picked on him and the way he just looked like he'd let her get away with anything.

"So where are you from, Lauren?" I told them I was from New York and got the wide-eyed reaction that had been amusing me for days, "Wow! All the way from New York! What brings you out here? And all by yourself? Are you traveling with…who are you here with?" "Well, I like to take at least one big trip all by myself each year, it's my favorite way to travel. And I've never been to the Pacific Northwest before, and I'm on a mission to see all 50 states, and I love the national parks, so here I am," I said with a smile.

Cindy was impressed to learn that I had a boyfriend who was cool with me taking big trips without him, and Sam just seemed impressed and entertained by me. I think he saw a little of himself in me. "I think I'll do that next time, Sam…better yet, this time…just drop yourself back at the lodge, and I'm gonna go tour the states with Lauren." "Oh Lauren, are you making your way back to Seattle?" "Oh, well you just have to call us up when you do! We'll take you out on the boat! We'll go sailing! Do you like to sail? Oh, and we can go to the Edgewater Hotel! You know, the Beatles only stayed at the Edgewater when they came to Seattle. Oh, and we'll do drinks and dinner and wine, and it'll be a blast! You have to come! No pressure, but please come. It'll be so fun!"

I was getting such a kick out of them. After she put her number in my phone, Cindy jogged across the parking lot to take in the view from the other end. I could hear her as she jogged, "Wow, would you look at this!" She was a firecracker that Cindy, fun to be around and truly one-of-a-kind. And her Sam, he was cool as a Caribbean cocktail with a colorful, fold-up umbrella. They were a good-looking couple, and they had a good time flirting with each other.

Determined to give me the best Pacific Northwest tips he had, Sam ran through a list of places to visit along my journey. Some of which I'd been planning to see, but most of it I knew I'd have to save for another trip. He told me about a time in his 20s when he was on a skiing trip in the mountains with some friends. They'd been camping in the woods for a few days when suddenly a massive tree fell on their tent in the middle of the night! None of them were seriously injured, but they were seriously shaken up, and without a solid tent around 2 am.

We could've exchanged stories all night. Suddenly I remembered to turn back around and check on the sunset situation. It was just starting to get vibrant. Cindy bellowed from a few hundred feet away, "Sam, c'mon!" She was still jogging in place. He laughed to himself. I waved. "She's a hoot, isn't she? Yeah, she's a lot of fun. We've been…dating for the past…seven…eight months or so. She's a runner, and man she is…somethin'." I couldn't help but smile so big. He looked at her so adoringly. I hoped she knew how crazy he was about her, but I suspect she did.

I admired them so much. Their playfulness, their youthful whim, their kindness to a perfect stranger. I couldn't tell if they had a slight buzz going, or if they were just the nicest, coolest folks I ever could've hoped to meet by chance. That's how it is out west…so many folks are just kind and genuinely glad to meet you.

Cindy jogged back over to us, "Oh my god, look at it! Lauren, let me take your picture. Send it back home to your mom and your man." On her way over, she poked her head in the car to give Sam a kiss, while I was gazing out at the colors that were really starting to ricochet across the night sky. Just then I started missing the guy I'd been having more than just a little fun with over the past seven months. "Here, Lauren, let me take your picture…Sam, isn't she gorgeous? Look at her? Isn't she just a beauty?" "She is beautiful and wow, so is that sky! Look at those colors!"

"Lauren…the Edgewater…the Beatles …you're coming, we're going," Cindy reminded me. This time, Sam spoke for me, "Cindy, she's got her whole trip planned…right, Lauren? I'm sure you've got…I mean we'd love to take you out…out on the boat, out to the Edgewater, but I'm sure you've got all your plans already in place, and you don't know us—if you don't wanna deviate from your plans, we understand." I thought it was so sweet that he actually had the presence of mind to acknowledge that I'd been planning every detail of my big solo adventure for months. The truth of it was, I really would've loved to meet up with them when I made my way back to Seattle, but I also really did already have so much I wanted to do, so many places I would've been bummed not to see. Not to mention, I could never sail because sadly, I get too motion sick for boat activities. 

I explained it all, and they didn't pressure me in the slightest. They just told me to call them if I wanted to get together. Cindy and I had a big hug. And Sam, still in the driver's seat, gave me a meaningful handshake before we all had a nice, long goodbye under the radiant night sky. 

Of course, back then, I knew there was no way I'd want to deviate from my trip. There was certainly no way I'd get on a boat or have a cocktail when these days, even a sip of wine goes straight to my head. But in retrospect, I wish I had gotten together with them again. Maybe I'll randomly reach out someday and see if they remember me. Either way, I'll always have the fondest memories of them, atop the ice-cold rim overlooking Crater Lake.